St. Helena Chamber of Commerce News Newswire

40 under 40: America's Tastemakers

Mon, 06 May 2013 04:00:00 GMT

40 Under 40: America's Tastemakers

Meet the rising young stars who are changing the way the world drinks.

Published on Apr 30, 2013

BY WINE ENTHUSIAST EDITORS

Ian Brand, 32

Winemaker, Coastview Vineyards, Le P'tit Paysan, Monterey, CA

After moving from Utah to California to pursue surfing, Brand found his real calling at Bonny Doon in Santa Cruz, where he was assistant winemaker from 2004– 2007. He has also been winemaker for Nicholson and Pierce Vine- yards and consults for various clients in the region. Innovative, experimental and eager to push the envelope in the Salinas Valley and beyond, Brand is known for his progressive approaches to plantings, commitment to organic farming and tireless promotion of Monterey as the next region to watch in California.

Bibiana González Rave, 35

Winemaker, Rave Vines & Wines, Santa Rosa, CA

Originally from Colombia and trained in France, where she earned dual degrees in viticulture and enology, González Rave spent years doing two harvests a year, from South Africa to France and California, and was until recently the winemaker at Lynmar Estate, where she earned stupendous reviews for her silky Pinot Noirs and complex Chardonnays. Last year she decided to go out on her own, launching Rave Vines & Wines, where she is laser focused on one place only: Pahlmeyer’s Wayfarer Vineyard on the Sonoma Coast. The first of her cool-climate Pinot Noir and Chardonnay will be from 2012. In addition to making a small amount of her own wines, she’s partnering with husband Jeff Pisoni on a Sauvignon Blanc brand.

Morgan Twain-Peterson, 32

Winemaker/Proprietor, Bedrock Wine Co., Sonoma, CA

Twain-Peterson practically grew up in a wine barrel; his dad is Joel Peterson, founder of Ravenswood Winery, and he made his first wine at the age of five. Twain-Peterson launched his own winery, Bedrock, back in 2007. He is a champion of minimalist technique to produce “heirloom wines,” those hailing from old vineyards interplanted with multiple varieties. Twain-Peterson’s goal: “To bring greater awareness to these field- blended vineyards that are so steeped in California history.”

Matt Stamp, MS, 35

Education Director, Guild of Sommeliers, Napa, CA

From managing V. Mertz, the fine- dining institution in Omaha, Nebraska, once owned by his family, to sommelier stints at the French Laundry and the Farmhouse Inn and Restaurant in Napa, Stamp has a lofty restaurant pedigree. Yet soon after winning the 2010 Top Somm competition and obtaining his master sommelier diploma, Stamp left the dining room floor behind him. Focused now on teaching and mentoring the next generation of sommeliers, Stamp is the education director for the Guild of Sommeliers, a nonprofit organization aimed at fostering a community for wine education.

Erin Sullivan, 33

Wine Director, Acme Fine Wine shop, Napa, CA

Sullivan worked for four years as sommelier at Del Frisco’s Steak House in Manhattan and then as wine director of PRESS in Saint Helena, managing extensive cellars at both. She is certified by the Court of Master Sommeliers, and the American Sommelier Association. Whether in tastings, on video or in person, Sullivan’s accessible approach to both California and global wine has gained her the attention of consumers and industry notables nationwide.

Ian Cauble, MS, 32

U.S. Ambassador, Krug Champagne, San Mateo, CA

While many luxury beverage companies select celebrities to be their brand ambassadors, Krug tapped Master Sommelier Ian Cauble to promote the Champagne house’s magic and philosophy. One of the current 197 individuals worldwide to pass the notoriously rigorous MS exam, Cauble has amassed numerous industry distinctions. In 2011, Cauble clinched the gold at the TopSomm USA championship. That same year, the Paris-based Confrérie de la Chaîne des Rôtisseurs, the world’s oldest gastronomic society, named him Best Young Sommelier of the World.

Jordan Harris, 32

Winemaker and General Manager, Tarara Winery, Leesburg, VA

While many of Virginia’s vintners are concentrating their efforts on the sure sellers—namely Bordeaux-style blends, Chardonnay and the state’s signature grape, Viognier— Harris champions varieties that are oft overlooked in the Commonwealth. Pushing the boundaries of his blends, Harris is blazing trails in the state with bottlings like his 2010 #SocialSecret, a heavy-hitting hodgepodge of Tannat, Petit Verdot and Pinotage; and his 2010 Honah Lee White, a sapid mix of Viognier, Roussanne and Petit Manseng.

Carla Rzeszewki, 34

Wine Director, The Breslin, John Dory Oyster Bar and The Spotted Pig, New York City

Despite being a relative newcomer to the wine business, Southern California-born Rzeszewski (pronounced Reh-zoo-ski) has turned three of the Big Apple’s hottest restaurants into hopping wine spots. Since 2009, this former bartender, who is self-taught with respect to wine, has helped steer The Spotted Pig from a glorified pub into what she calls a “fun” wine destination while decking out the John Dory’s list with thirst-quenching whites and making The Breslin a destination for “adventurous” wine enthusiasts. Rzeszewski’s vivacious personality is mirrored in her wine choices, which play nicely off lauded chef April Bloomfield’s creations at all three locations.

Ivy Mix, 27

Co-founder, Speed Rack, Brooklyn, NY

While she’s also a top-notch bartender at Brooklyn’s Clover Club, Mix is perhaps best known these days for her role as creator and later, with Lynnette Marrero, co-founder of Speed Rack, a national cocktail competition that creates a platform for female bartenders while simultaneously raising money for breast cancer- related charities. They are currently on their second season tour and are going international to London in 2013. So far it's raised more than $110,000.

Ravi DeRossi, 38

Owner, DeRossi Global, New York City

DeRossi’s innovative approaches to cocktail artistry, venue ambiance and his inspired mentoring of numerous spirits stars in his establishments have impacted cocktail culture well beyond New York and America. DeRossi’s bars are often at the very forefront of latest trend, such as the exotic and hard-to-find rums of Cienfuegos and the extensive artisanal Mezcal list of Mayhuel.

Greg Engert, 33

Beer Director and Partner, Neighborhood Restaurant Group, Washington, D.C.

At the District’s Birch & Barley and Churchkey, two of the Neighborhood Restaurant Group’s 11 establishments, Engert has elevated beer consumption and education to levels far exceeding the casual imbibing of the carbonated, boozy beverage. At these havens for hopheads, Engert plies his suds-loving guests with an almost overwhelming list of 555 artisanal brews from around the globe (500 in bottle, 50 on tap and five cask conditioned), treating each selection with the respect that sommeliers grant the holiest of wines.

Christina Turley, 28

Brand Ambassador and Head of Sales, Turley Wine Cellars, Napa, CA

Daughter of winery owner Larry Turley, Christina attended Barnard College and worked at Matthew Marks art gallery before eventually becoming the beverage director for all Momofuku restaurants. In 2010 she returned home to the Napa Valley to start The Label, a new Turley Cabernet Sauvignon project released this winter. She’s now sales manager and brand ambassador for her family winery and the mind behind such new projects as the release of a bone dry Turley White Zinfandel.

Jesse Katz, 29

Winemaker, Lancaster Estate and Roth, Healdsburg, CA

The son of photographer Andy Katz who came to Lancaster from Napa cult brand Screaming Eagle, Jesse’s first vintage of 2010 Lancaster Estate Cabernet Sauvignon is just about to be released, hot on the heels of the two barrels of wedding cuvée he made for the nuptials of friends Justin Timberlake and Jessica Biel, a 2009 blend of Alexander Valley Cab, Zin and Petite Sirah. Katz is also supervising the development of Lancaster’s sister brand, the 50,000-case Roth, which will soon have its own separate winery and for which he will make six different wines.

Nicole Erny, 28

Master Cicerone, Oakland, CA

Starting out behind the taps at The Trappist in Oakland during college, Erny is the first woman, fourth person and youngest ever to
earn the Master Cicerone title, recognition of her evolved knowledge of beer, brewing and food pairing. She consults on beer menus, hosts dinners and events, including blind tastings, and otherwise pied-pipers her way around the country putting together Homebrew Nerd-Out and other educational tasting courses for home brewers.

Alpana Singh, MS, 36

Proprietor, The Boarding House, Chicago

Although she was born and raised in Monterey, California, Singh has been part of the fine-dining scene in Chicago for nearly 15 years. In 2000, she was named sommelier at Everest, and received her master sommelier diploma only three years later—do the math if you want to be amazed at her precociousness. She also appears regularly on local PBS television channel WTTV as host of Check, Please! and recently opened her first restaurant, The Boarding House, to great critical acclaim.

Andy Lewis, 31

Distiller, Rock Town Distillery, Little Rock, AR

Emerging as a spirits-maker to watch in the South, Lewis is stirring things up at Rock Town Distillery in Little Rock, the first legal distillery in the state since Prohibition. “An advantage of being a smaller operation is the freedom to experiment more,” says Lewis, who helped the distillery win double gold at the San Francisco World Spirits Competition in 2011 for its handmade, small batch, vapor-infused Brandon’s Gin—beating out Hendrick’s and Tanqueray. Lewis is firmly committed to using local materials and ingredients, with plans to release a rye whiskey from Arkansas grains in the near future. “We’re planning on really pushing the envelope,” says Lewis.

Marko Karakasevic, 39

Master Distiller, Charbay Distillers, St. Helena, CA

“Whiskey is where it’s at,” says Karakasevic, a 13th-generation distiller working in the Napa Valley family business whose creations never fail to surprise. To wit: his stout beer-based Doubled and Twisted Whiskey, which earned him a “Master Distiller” designation in 2009. More recently, his zesty, honeyed Hop Flavored Whiskey, distilled from Racer 5 IPA, is a true beer-lover’s whiskey, and continues to surprise. We can’t wait to see what’s next.

Kristy Melton, 32

Winemaker, Clos du Val, Napa, CA

Hired as Clos du Val’s assistant winemaker in 2010, Melton was promoted to winemaker just two years later and tasked with evolving the winery’s exclusive Winemaker Signature Series, designed to shine a light on the estate’s 150 acres of Stags Leap District and 180 acres of Carneros vineyards. A Texas native, Melton makes several notable Stags Leap District wines, ranging from Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon to Carneros Pinot Noir.

Pascaline Lepeltier, 32

Beverage Director, Rouge Tomate, New York City

Within a year of taking over the dusty 4,500- bottle cellar of two-star L’Auberge Bretonne in the Pays Nantais, this Angers, France-native was named Best Loire Valley Young Sommelier and Best Sommelier in all of Brittany. In 2008, she took second place in the Best French Sommelier competition, the highest finish ever for a woman. In addition to upping the quality of the wine list at Rouge Tomate NYC, Lepeltier years ago quietly outflanked scores of so-called mixology meccas by transforming the Midtown restaurant’s cocktail menu into one of the first truly season-driven, farm- to-bar affairs.

Leo Robitschek, 31

Bar Manager, The Bar at the NoMad Hotel, New York City

This rising star is making a serious impact with his bar program at the NoMad hotel, and before that, Eleven Madison Park. A native of Venezuela, Robitschek has truly distinguished himself with consistently innovative bar programs (such as the custom-designed bar carts used at NoMad to elevate bottle service at tables), an emphasis on hospitality, and outstanding cocktails, like the biting Hair Trigger (Venezuelan rum, Fernet Branca, ginger, lime and cucumber).

Jasmine Hirsch, 33

Director of Sales and Marketing, Hirsch Vineyards, Cazadero, CA

This daughter of Hirsch Vineyard founder David Hirsch has made a name for herself as an ardent advocate of “balance” in California Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. The 33-year-old is president of the In Pursuit of Balance Association, which promotes Pinot Noirs of lower alcohol. She’s also director of sales and marketing for Hirsch Vineyards. Outgoing and spirited, Hirsch is active in the social media realm.

Laura Maniec, MS, 33

Owner, Corkbuzz Wine Studio, New York City

One of just 18 female master sommeliers in the world, Laura Maniec launched Corkbuzz Wine Studio—a hip wine shrine for lovers of the grape—in November 2011. From the casual consumer to the aspiring beverage director, oenophiles of every level flock to this Union Square haunt to soak up vinous factoids and tales that Maniec avidly shares as she strolls the floor. Offering enlightening classes and a wine list that champions the eclectic, Maniec has created a community that welcomes wine exploration and enjoyment without intimidation or pretension.

Philip Rubin, 28

Director of Sales & Marketing

Phillip Zucchino, 29

Director of Wine Programs, The Wine Feed, Raleigh, NC

Rubin and Zucchino trained their palates, sniffed out wines around the world and blended a solid business plan a full year before they opened The Wine Feed, a wine store and event space. The pair “help people become more confident sharing wine, tasting wine, talking about wine and ordering it,” says enologist Zucchino. If you’re in the hot Raleigh-Durham, N.C. research triangle, they will even deliver your favorite wine.

Joe Campanale, 29

Beverage Director/Partner L’Artusi, dell’anima, L’Apicio and Anfora, New York City

Queens-born Campanale oversees the wine programs at the New York restaurants L’Artusi, dell’anima and L’Apicio as well as the wine bar Anfora. Campanale, who started in the wine business at the age of 22 as a salesman at Italian Wine Merchants in New York before moving on to sommelier work at Mario Batali’s renowned Babbo, is a huge fan of Old World wines, particularly those from Italy and Champagne. “My goal since we started in 2007 is to provide wines that taste great and are made with integrity and which complement the menu and offer value,” he says. When pouring something for himself, the affable Campanale leans toward Nebbiolo.

Matt Taylor, 35

Winemaker/Farmer, Reuling Vineyard and Front Porch Farm, Forestville, CA

The former winemaker and vineyard manager at Araujo Estate, in 2011 Taylor moved over to Reuling Vineyard in the Russian River Valley, a longtime source of sought-after Pinot Noir and Chardonnay grapes for Aubert and Peter Michael. His love of Pinot began at Joseph Swan in 2000, followed by a stint at Domaine Dujac in Burgundy, where he also took to biodynamic farming. Taylor also oversees the biodynamic Front Porch Farm in Healdsburg and has had his own label, Taylor Cellars, since 2006.

Paul Zitarelli, 35

Owner, Full Pull Wines, Seattle

A winding path led Zitarelli to open online- and email-driven Full Pull Wines in a Seattle warehouse. He majored in applied math at Harvard and “spent a good portion of my twenties in a bunch of strange jobs trying to figure out what to do with my life.” Wine beckoned; first a blog, then an Amazon internship. Finally, four years ago, Full Pull debuted, offering Zitarelli’s carefully selected, boutique wines (mostly Washington-sourced, with some imports) to a fast-growing mailing list.

Fred Merwarth, 35

Winemaker and Vineyard Manager, Co-owner

Oskar Bynke, 37

Finger Lakes pioneer Hermann J. Wiemer revolutionized fine winemaking in the region. Since 2007, the infusion of Wiemer’s long-time winemaking assistant, Fred Merwarth, and friend, Oskar Bynke, as co-owners, has elevated not just the winery, but Finger Lakes wines as a category. Merwarth and Bynke met over a decade ago while students at Cornell University. Ironically, while Merwarth studied business and Bynke studied agronomy, it’s Merwarth who is known for his thoughtful winemaking and Bynke for his business savvy and strident ambassadorship.

Nicholas Miller, 33

VP of Sales and Marketing, Bien Nacido Vineyards, Santa Barbara, CA

Miller is barely 33 years old and already has emerged as a powerhouse in California wine. As effective head of his family’s Bien Nacido, French Camp and Solomon Hills vineyards, he not only grows some of the state’s most coveted fruit, he actively encourages a new generation of young winemakers to seek it out.

Karl Wente, 36

Winemaker, Wente Vineyards, Livermore, CA

The fifth-generation winemaker and head of winemaking operations for 130-year-old Wente Vineyards, the guitar- playing, yoga-posing Karl oversees thousands of acres of sustainably- farmed estate vineyards from the Livermore Valley, San Francisco Bay and Arroyo Seco appellations. He’s credited with creating the family’s limited- production, best-of-the- best Nth Degree brand, in addition to finessing its Wente, Double Decker, Entwine and Murietta’s Well wines.

Hardy Wallace, 39

Winemaker, blogger Dirty and Rowdy Family Winery, Calistoga, CA

Wallace hit wine country’s radar when he won Murphy-Goode’s “A Really Goode Job” contest, which instantly made him one of the most visible personalities in wine social media. Since then, Hardy’s had stints in various parts of the industry. He now makes the wine at his own brand, Dirty and Rowdy Family Winery, and also doubles as social media director for the well-known Napa winery, Corison. A humorous, wry guy, Wallace maintains plenty of online visibility through his blog atdirtysouthwine.com.

Fernando Beteta, MS, 36

Director of Education and Social Technologies, Tenzing Wine & Spirits, Chicago

There’s a twinkle in the eye and a lift to the voice of the Guatamalan-born Beteta when he’s talking about wine— the sort of contagious enthusiasm that affects those around him. His obvious passion for the product has driven him fast and far. From neophyte to master sommelier in six years, head of NoMI’s 100,000-bottle cellar and now ideally positioned to spread the gospel of wine throughout the Chicagoland area and beyond, Beteta is a force of nature yet always seems perennially poised and perfectly in control.

Lesley Townsend Duval, 34

Founder and Executive Director, Manhattan Cocktail Classic, New York City

One of the first things Duval confesses is: she’s never been a bartender. Yet that didn’t stop her from creating the Manhattan Cocktail Classic, now entering its fourth year. A career in the nonprofit world followed by wine classes led her to start up wine and spirits education space Astor Center. Before long, she realized that there was no real cocktail festival in New York City, and quit her job to remedy that. These days, when it seems like every city or state has a drinks festival to call their own, it’s easy to point to MCC—and Duval—for helping blaze that trail.

Tyler Baillet, 33

President and Founder, Second Glass, Boston

Second Glass’s Wine Riot series—the interactive, educational wine events that specifically cater to the younger set—got started five years ago when Balliet was working an office job during the day and a wine shop at night. Realizing that “young wine drinkers had questions about wine, and the producers and brands had all the answers,” Balliet and his business partner brought the two together in 2009. Today, Wine Riot boasts wine tasting events in six cities, utilizing mobile apps, social media and fun touches like wine tattoos and photo booths to get the Millennial generation engaged in learning about wine.

Jason Littrell, 32

Former president U.S. Bartenders’ Guild, New York Chapter, New York City

This gregarious San Diego native is noted for embracing cocktails and community with equal intensity. Littrell campaigned for health insurance for bartenders in his role as president of USBG-NY, and raised funds for bars impacted by Hurricane Sandy. That is, when he’s not wearing one of his many other hats, such as consulting for liquor brands and building drink menus at bars and restaurants like JBird. Although he’s serious about cocktails—even the humble gin and tonic, he says, “can be produced exceptionally well with a certain amount of care and intensity”—he’s best known for co-creating the inspired silliness known as the Pickleback (whiskey plus pickle juice).

Damon Boelte, 31

Radio Host on the The Speakeasy & Bar Director, Prime Meats, Brooklyn

At farm-to-table restaurant Prime Meats, Boelte has earned his stripes with unique and interesting cocktails, often spiked with bitters (at least one memorable drink calls for an entire 20-ml bottle of Underberg). In addition, Boelte has hosted The Speakeasy on Heritage Radio Network for the past two years—featuring bartenders talking shop and tossing shots in a most unfettered environment, making listeners feel like they too have drawn up a stool at the bar.

Erin Barbour Scala, 32

Wine Director, Public, New York City

Scala’s wine list at Public is a bold proclamation of Australasian independence. There are nods to current trends, like wines from Jerez and Jura, and salutes to the classics from Bordeaux and Burgundy, but the meat of the matter lies in her selections from Australia and New Zealand. No other restaurant in this country can rival the breadth or depth from those regions, and to remain steadfast in her convictions has taken courage. The result is a destination-haven for folks actually from Down Under, or just people who share Scala’s passion for those wines.

Gavin Chanin, 26

Winemaker, Price Chanin Vineyards and Chanin Wine Co., Sonoma, CA

Chanin started tasting wine his senior year of high school in Los Angeles (shh!), then spent a summer working at Au Bon Climat in Santa Barbara alongside Jim Clendenen, who became his winemaking mentor. He worked three more California harvests, including one at nearby Qupé, before launching Chanin Wine Co. in 2007. A proponent of restraint, last year Chanin partnered with Bill Price of Durell Vineyards (and an investor in Kosta Browne and Kistler) to start a single-vineyard Pinot Noir and Chardonnay project, the Price Chanin Vineyards.

Scott Beattie, 38

Bar Manager and Partner, Goose & Gander, St. Helena, CA

Beattie won worldwide acclaim at Healdsburg’s Michelin-starred Cyrus, where he inspired a movement harvesting local, seasonal ingredients to craft fresh, imaginative cocktails. Then he wrote Artisanal Cocktails, a barkeep’s bible, detailing his chef-like approach to making damn fine drinks. He’s now bar manager and a partner in St. Helena’s Goose & Gander, working the bar four nights a week, and is a sought-after consultant for hot spot restaurants and hotels, from the Grand Hyatt San Francisco to W South Beach Miami.

>>> Wine Enthusiast TV surprised 12 of these rising young stars at the New York City photo shoot to film an exclusive behind-the-scenes video. WE asked each of these masterminds a set of questions: What's one wine or spirits myth they'd debunk? And if they could have a drink with anyone in history, who would it be? Watch to hear their answers >>

Meadowood Chef, staff nominated for noted Beard Foundation

Wed, 27 Mar 2013 04:00:00 GMT

Meadowood chef, staff nominated for noted Beard Foundation awards

March 18, 2013 7:11 pm • L. PIERCE CARSON

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Christopher Kostow, executive chef at The Restaurant at Meadowood, and his dining room staff have reason to be proud today.

They have been nominated to received a prestigious James Beard Foundation award — Kostow as best chef in the region of the United States that includes California, Nevada and Hawaii, and the staff of The Restaurant as one of five nationwide dining rooms singled out for outstanding service.

Often referred to as the “Oscars of the culinary world,” the Beard Foundation awards are presented annually to the nation’s top chefs, restaurants and food and wine industry professionals as well as authors, journalists and other media.

Kostow’s competition includes three San Francisco chefs — Chris Cosentino (Incanto), Corey Lee (Benu) and Daniel Patterson (Coi) — along with the Los Angeles culinary team of Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo at Animal.

Other nominees for outstanding service are Del Posto, New York; Quince, San Francisco; Topolobampo, Chicago; and Vetri, Philadelphia.

Additional nominees on the local scene are Thomas Keller and Sebastien Rouxel for their “Bouchon Bakery” cookbook, one of three nominees in the baking and desserts category of the foundation’s book awards. Also nominated is “Bouchon Bakery” photographer Deborah Jones in the photography category.

Gabriel Rucker, executive chef/owner of Le Pigeon in Portland, Ore., is one of five nominees as best chef in the northwestern region of the United States. He was named Rising Star Chef by the James Beard Foundation at award ceremonies in New York last year. A graduate of Vintage High School, Rucker was raised in Napa Valley. His parents, Laurie and Dave Rucker, are Napa residents.

A pair of new San Francisco restaurants, Rich Table and State Bird Provisions, received nominations in the best new restaurant category.

Covering all aspects of the industry — from chefs and restaurateurs to cookbook authors and food journalists to restaurant designers and architects — the Beard Awards are the highest honor for food and beverage professionals working in North America. The awards are presented each spring at Avery Fisher Hall at Lincoln Center. The book, broadcast and journalism awards are presented on May 3, the remaining awards on May 6.

Chef Cindy Pawlcyn savors storied career

Fri, 15 Mar 2013 04:00:00 GMT

Chef Cindy Pawlcyn savors storied career

Janny Hu

Updated 11:10 pm, Saturday, March 9, 2013

The sophisticated comfort food at Cindy Pawlcyn's Mustards Grill has been a hit in Napa since 1983. Photo: Jason Henry, Special To The Chronicle

She's been heralded as a culinary pioneer and a Napa Valley legend. But ask Cindy Pawlcyn how she's changed since bursting onto the Bay Area dining scene more than three decades ago, and she cuts to the heart of it.

"I'm older," she said. "Maybe a little wiser."

Pawlcyn is decked out in a pink chef's coat and red-rimmed glasses, with gray hair that's become as much a signature as her beloved Mongolian pork chop. At 57, she's also two years past her intended retirement age, though she isn't exactly slowing down.

This year, Mustards Grill celebrates its 30th anniversary, cementing its status as the grande dame of Pawlcyn's trio of Napa Valley restaurants. In April, she'll open Cindy's Waterfront at the Monterey Bay Aquarium, a project that's been in the works for two years.

The focus, naturally, will be on local and sustainable food, but there's also a very personal connection at work. Not only did the aquarium open in 1984, a year after Pawlcyn and her partners opened Rio Grill in nearby Carmel, but a visit there helped heal her mother's broken heart after the passing of Pawlcyn's father.

"It made her happier again," Pawlcyn said.

Teenage caterer

Cynthia "Cindy" Pawlcyn got her cooking start helping her mother at home in suburban Minneapolis. She knew she wanted to be a chef when she was 13, and rather than babysit for extra money in high school, she ran a catering business out of her family's kitchen. She also worked at Le Crevette, a local shop where she met Julia Child.

Pawlcyn graduated from the University of Wisconsin-Stout with a degree in hotel and restaurant management, but it wasn't her first choice for school. She had applied to the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, N.Y., but was rejected because the school had already filled its quota for women.

Consider it the first of many trials she'd face as a female in the kitchen.

"I had a lot of crap, guys that wanted me to sit in their lap if I wanted a promotion, or said, 'There's the pantry,' " she recalled, referring to the entry-level position. "But I was stubborn and determined and wanted to be a chef."

After college, she landed a cooking job at the famed Pump Room in Chicago, where she met her future business partners Bill Higgins and Bill Upson. Higgins, then the Pump Room general manager, remembers Pawlcyn as a dynamo who'd get as much done in half the time as other cooks and chefs. Her food, meanwhile, showed intelligence and restraint.

"She didn't overdo it," Higgins said. "She had a real sensibility about what flavors went together."

Fast friends

Pawlcyn and the two Bills became fast friends, bonding over work and dinner parties. Spurred by a few particularly nasty Chicago winters, they decided to move west to San Francisco, where Higgins' grandparents lived.

Their first order of business when they arrived in 1979 was helping restaurateur Larry Mindel turn San Francisco's MacArthur Park into a rib joint. Soon, a connection was made with another Bill, real estate mogul Bill Harlan, who was opening Meadowood Resort in St. Helena and tapped Pawlcyn as the opening chef.

So began her reign in the Napa Valley, though it wasn't particularly glamorous. Far from being the culinary mecca it is today, the valley in 1980 was still largely pasture, with few restaurants and even fewer chefs showcasing local produce that matched the caliber of the region's wines.

Pawlcyn helped change that with the opening of Mustards Grill in 1983. The menu offered her take on American cuisine, and the Mongolian pork chop, shaved onion rings and seafood tostada became instant hits.

It was simple food, but cooked and presented in a sophisticated, yet unfussy way. Pawlcyn, then just 28 years old, was also among the first to plant an organic garden outside her restaurant.

Architectural Digest- The 10 Most Beautiful Designed Restaurants-French Blue

Mon, 11 Mar 2013 04:00:00 GMT

The 20 Most Beautifully Designed New Restaurants

We’ve surveyed the globe to find the best new restaurants where high design tops the menu

Text by Tim McKeough |

Read Article

Backen has a reputation for designing buildings that blur the distinction between indoor and outdoor space, and French Blue is no different. Here, tall windows can be opened to unite the dining room with a generous patio equipped with an outdoor fireplace, while woven dining chairs look like they could be carried outside at a moment’s notice. No wonder the architect doesn’t want to be far away—his firm, Backen, Gillam & Kroeger Architects, has moved its St. Helena office into an adjoining building.

20 Most Important Restaurants

Mon, 18 Feb 2013 05:00:00 GMT

BON APPETIT
- IN THE MAGAZINE

In The Magazine

THE FOODIST EXPLAINS

#1—MOMOFUKU
NYC AND BEYOND

#2—THE RESTAURANT AT MEADOWOOD
NAPA, CA

#3—HUSK
CHARLESTON, SC

#4—ALINEA
CHICAGO

#5—MANRESA
LOS GATOS, CA

#6—ROBERTA'S
BROOKLYN

#7—ELEVEN MADISON PARK
NYC

#8—POK POK
PORTLAND, OR, AND BROOKLYN

#9—MISSION CHINESE FOOD
SF AND NYC

#10—UCHI/UCHIKO
AUSTIN

#11—ANIMAL
LOS ANGELES

#12—AVEC
CHICAGO

#13—LE BERNARDIN
NYC

#14—COCHON
NEW ORLEANS

#15—THE WALRUS AND THE CARPENTER
SEATTLE

#16—SHAKE SHACK
NYC AND BEYOND

#17—FRANKLIN BARBECUE
AUSTIN

#18—BALTHAZAR
NYC

#19—PRIMO
ROCKLAND, ME

#20—SWAN OYSTER DEPOT
SAN FRANCISCO

Harvest Inn’s ‘Tastes and Sips’ Package in Napa Valley

Wed, 12 Dec 2012 05:00:00 GMT

Harvest Inn’s ‘Tastes and Sips’ Package in Napa Valley (starting at $389 per night) Your wine lover will be overjoyed with a gift that will indulge and delight his senses. Give him/her a two-night Napa Valley getaway with Harvest Inn’s ‘Tastes and Sips’ Package. Stay in a luxurious room in gorgeous California wine country surroundings, eat irresistible foods, drink spectacular wine and take in all that Napa Valley has to offer. Available starting January, 2013, this generous package includes two nights in a spacious room with a fireplace, a $100 gift certificate to the renown Tra Vigne restaurant, a bottle of wine, a box of handcrafted chocolates, breakfast for two delivered to your room, complimentary tastings at two wineries, and more. Read more about my recent visit to Harvest Inn and Tra Vigne .

Living The Rich Life in Harvest Inn in Napa Valley, California

Wed, 12 Dec 2012 05:00:00 GMT

Travel: Living The Rich Life in Harvest Inn in Napa Valley, California

Posted by: adrienne shubin Tags: California, culinary travel, enjoy life, luxury lifestyle, Napa valley, Sonoma County, the rich life, wine travel Posted date: November 30, 2012 | 8 Comments

Harvest Inn in Napa Valley, California

World-famous Napa Valley, in Northern California, is home to some of the world’s greatest wine, best food, and most luxurious accommodations and it’s a perfect travel destination. Recently, I had the pleasure of spending a night and two days experiencing that and more when I visited Harvest Inn.

Harvest Inn is located just outside the quaint yet sophisticated town of St. Helena in the northern end of Napa Valley, Harvest Inn has been a popular destination for visitors since 1978.

Originally built in an English Country lodge-style, the eight-acre property boasts hundreds of mature redwood trees, 356 to be exact, that surround and shield the property from the world outside. Lush lawns, rose gardens, fountains, a koi pond, rustic benches, and Adirondack chairs dot the premises and invite visitors to slow down and take in the natural beauty.

The Harvest Inn was purchased by a San Francisco entrepreneur several years ago, the 74-room AAA Four Diamond property has been newly renovated. Several new buildings have been added, including additional rooms, a conference center, and spa.

Harvest Inn is serene and inviting. I was instantly more relaxed upon checking in at the front desk with the helpful and friendly staff.

My husband, two Yorkshire Terriers and I stayed in the Tudor-style Manor building in a Spa Vineyard View Suite. Complete with beautiful hardwood floors and a newly refurbished bathroom, the suite featured a hot tub on a private brick patio overlooking an expansive vineyard, a large brick fireplace, king-sized bed with a Mission-style bed frame and comfortable desk area.

Thoughtful touches such as sumptuous robes, feather-down bedding, colorful leaded glass windows, plenty of dog treats and cozy dog beds in our pet-friendly room, and many other amenities made us feel special and comfortable. To be honest, I didn’t want to leave the inn for anything, ever!

But we did leave. We dined at nearby Tra Vigne, a longtime Napa Valley favorite for locals and visitors alike. Tra Vigne serves rustic Italian cuisine in an elegant, modern setting. We ordered the Mozzarella Al Minuto, which is made to order and served at your table with grilled Italian country bread. The dish was hard to forget so we returned the next day for lunch to enjoy it again.

Other favorites are the black truffle pizza, beef short ribs on polenta and for dessert, the butterscotch panna cotta with caramel sauce, crème fraiche, sea salt and tiny hazelnut cookies.

Tastes and Sips Package at Harvest Inn

Harvest Inn is running a special package for upcoming stays. A $100 gift certificate to Tra Vigne is part of Harvest Inn’s ‘Tastes and Sips’ package that also includes two nights in a beautifully appointed room with fireplace, in-room Napa-style breakfast for two, two wine tastings, a box of handmade local chocolates, a bottle of Cabernet Sauvignon, and more.

If you’re considering traveling to Napa Valley, January is the ideal time. There are fantastic deals waiting for you at over 30 restaurants participating in Napa Valley Restaurant Month, and you won’t have to fight the high-season crowds!

Treat yourself or a loved one to a Napa Valley getaway with a holiday gift of Harvest Inn’s ‘Tastes and Sips’ package. Or visit Harvest Inn anytime of year and enjoy its beauty, warm and friendly staff, and plush amenities.

Ask about a pet-friendly room and bring Fido along on your getaway. I’m guessing he will enjoy his stay at Harvest Inn as much as our Coco and Daisy did!

To reserve your January ‘Tastes and Sips’ package, visit Harvest Inn’s website and make your reservation now!

And for more about my stay at Harvest Inn, and my life and other travel destinations in California, visit my blog, The Rich Life (on a budget).

Disclosure: My stay at the Harvest Inn was comped but my views and opinions are my own as always.

SF Gate: A look at new St. Helena Restaurants

Mon, 15 Oct 2012 04:00:00 GMT

Tuna tostadas at La Condesa restaurant in St. Helena Friday, October 5, 2012.

Here's a closer look at some of the places that have opened in St. Helena in the past couple of years.

French Blue: The 70-seat restaurant, opened earlier this year, was carved out of the space that for years housed the chic Vanderbilt and Company. Designed and partly owned by Howard Backen, one of the top architects in the Bay Area, it has a beautiful farmhouse feel, with a patio warmed by a fireplace in front.

The quirky all-day menu features omelets anytime you want them, and an egg on anything for an extra $2. Best bet on the menu is the house-made farmer's cheese with grilled levain, and the grilled hanger steak ($22) recently served with chimichurri, tomatoes and corn.

1429 Main St. (near Madrona), St. Helena; (707) 968-9200. frenchbluenapa.com. Open continuously for breakfast, lunch or brunch and dinner. Full bar. Reservations and credit cards accepted.

Goose & Gander: This took over the space of the once-popular Martini House that closed in 2010 after a decade-long run. The space remained dark for more than a year until it was taken over by Andrew Florsheim with chef Kelly McCown, who worked at Ella in Sacramento.

The menu includes roasted bone marrow ($13) with mustard vinaigrette; an iceberg wedge ($15) with pork belly blue cheese and shaved radishes; and seared halibut ($24) with lemon beurre blanc, oyster mushrooms, seabeans, capers and toasted almonds.

1245 Spring St. (near Oak Avenue), St. Helena; (707) 967-8779. goosegander.com. Lunch Friday-Sunday; dinner nightly. Full bar. Reservations and credit cards accepted.

Farmstead: As its name implies, this restaurant is part of the Long Meadow Ranch Winery. It has a beautiful urbane barn-like interior, or you can eat outside between rows of grape vines.

Chef Stephen Barber creates a menu that includes a cast-iron skillet of excellent meatballs ($12); chile made from the ranch's grass-fed beef, Rancho Gordo beans and Vella cheese ($8); and brick-cooked chicken ($22) also accompanied by beans.

738 Main St. (at Charter Oak), St. Helena; (707) 963-9181. www.farmsteadnapa.com. Open continuously for lunch and dinner daily. Full bar. Reservations and credit cards accepted.

La Condesa: A branch of the popular restaurant in Austin, Texas, this downtown St. Helena restaurant offers something no one else can match in the Napa Valley: an extensive Tequila menu with more than 150 options.

There aren't nearly as many food selections, but one of the top choices is the chips with four salsas ($4). In addition you'll find exceptional guacamole ($8) - the traditional is the best - and huaraches ($15) with wild mushrooms, huitlacoche, farmer's cheese and a touch of truffle oil.

I'd also recommend the three small tostadas ($12) topped with blood-red chunks of yellowfin tuna on a heap of pickled cucumbers, with habanero mustard, chipotle mayonnaise and a sprinkle of fried shallots topping shredded cabbage.

1820 Main St. (near Hunt Avenue), St. Helena; (707) 967-8111. lacondesa.com/napa. Lunch and dinner daily. Full bar. Reservations and credit cards accepted.

Bar Terra: The 34-seat bar next to the reconfigured Terra restaurant is one of my favorite casual places to eat in the valley. You can get chicharrones dusted with chile and lime zest ($8), grilled edamame ($7) and excellent rillettes ($9) to go with a pre-dinner cocktail. Then there are some Terra classics such as the tripe stew ($13), fried rock shrimp ($15) and radicchio salad with Parmesan balsamic vinaigrette ($11).

The kitchen also makes one of the best ramen bowls ($13.50) I've had, with pork trotters and jowl and a Jidori egg. You can also get braised pork shoulder with mashed potatoes ($24) and a grilled New York strip steak with a chicory salad ($20/$36).

And this is one place you don't want to pass up desserts that might include a rhubarb crostata ($10).

1345 Railroad Ave. (near Hunt Avenue), St. Helena; (707) 963-8931. terrarestaurant.com. Dinner Wednesday-Monday. Full bar. Reservations and credit cards accepted.

Cindy Pawlcyn's Wood Grill & Wine Bar: The decor hasn't changed that much at this restaurant that until two months ago was Brassica. However, owner Cindy Pawlcyn has gone back to what people seem to like best: generous portions of American food.

That could be four filets of sole ($22) with loads of almonds, brown butter and spinach; or a pounded pork cutlet ($22) that's breaded and fried, served with a rice timbale, vegetables and tonkatsu sauce. Other items include pizza ($13-$16), simple salads ($8) and an excellent hamburger ($14).

The restaurant has retained the idea started at Brassica of having a small wine producer roam the floor every Saturday, giving diners small tastes of wines.

641 Main St. (near Mills), St. Helena; (707-963-0700. cindypawlcynsgrill.com. Open continuously for lunch and dinner Wednesday-Sunday. Full bar. Reservations and credit cards accepted.

SF Gate: Napa Valley's Shifting Dining Scene

Mon, 15 Oct 2012 04:00:00 GMT

When I moved to the Bay Area in 1986, finding a really good, casual restaurant in the Napa Valley was pretty much limited to Cindy Pawlcyn's Mustard's.

Opened in 1983, Mustard's local, eclectic food was a game changer. It foreshadowed a wave of new restaurants, most of them opening north of that Yountville location on Highway 29. Over the next few years, St. Helena became the hub of the Napa Valley, especially with the opening of Tra Vigne in 1987 and Terra in 1988.

"There weren't many choices and there was a lot of room to grow," says Lissa Doumani, who owns Terra and Bar Terra with her husband, Hiro Sone.

"We chose our day to be closed because next door was Miramonte, closed on Sunday and Monday, and Trilogy that was closed on Wednesday. So that's how we picked Tuesday to be closed."

Pawlcyn was part of the group that opened Tra Vigne. She's no longer involved there but the place still is going strong. She's also responsible for two other places in St. Helena - Cindy's Backstreet Kitchen, which took over the space that used to house Miramonte; and Cindy Pawlcyn's Wood Grill & Wine Bar in the old Pinot Blanc space.

That Pinot Blanc space actually encapsulates the story of the growth and contraction of St. Helena.

Los Angeles chef Joachim Splichal, of Patina fame, opened the restaurant in 1999, just as the Napa Valley tourism center began to head south. Three years later, Splichal retooled it, pouring loads of money into a new interior and highlighting lighter California food. Five years later, he called it quits.

Pawlcyn took it over, gave it a major remodel and debuted Go Fish. Five years after that, as interest in her sushi-centric restaurant waned, she changed concepts and created Brassica, featuring a Howard Backen interior and a Mediterranean menu. The restaurant didn't even last a year; last month, it became Cindy Pawlcyn's Wood Grill & Wine Bar.

"I think the market is saturated," Pawlcyn says. "We have good restaurant eaters in this town or we'd be in trouble. There's lots of competition, more than I've ever seen."

St. Helena is only 9 miles from Yountville on Highway 29 - 18 miles from Napa - but it's a road many locals and visitors have become reluctant to travel. Some locals fear St. Helena is becoming the new Calistoga as the culinary epicenter has increasingly focused on Yountville.

Piatti opened in Yountville in 1987, the same year as Tra Vigne and 10 years after Domaine Chandon opened its groundbreaking restaurant at the winery. However, the area didn't begin to become a culinary destination until Thomas Keller took over the French Laundry in 1994. Others followed: Bistro Jeanty in 1998, Bouchon in 2001, Hurley's in 2002, Redd in 2005, Bottega in 2008, and Redd Wood and Lucy earlier this year.

Then the dining options in Napa exploded. When Table 29 opened there in 1991, it seemed impossibly out of the mainstream. But two years later, Donna and Giovanni Scala, who started the Piatti chain, sold their interest in that endeavor and turned the Table 29 space into the still-popular Bistro Don Giovanni, which has built its business on local clientele.

"The pattern since then has been to move down valley," Donna Scala says. "You now have a lot more going on in Napa."

After a lazy start with the opening of Celadon in 1996, things began to explode in Napa in the 2000s. Cole's Chop House opened in 2000, followed by Zuzu and Angele in 2002, and Oenotri, Morimoto and Fish Story in 2010. In addition, Le Toque relocated from Rutherford in 2008.

There have been some failures, too, including the vegetable-centric Ubuntu, the Indian-inspired Neela's and Tyler Florence's Rotisserie and Wine. Earlier this year, the Thomas took over the old Fagiani's bar that was closed for 40 years, and later this year, the Pear, a Southern bistro, will take over the Rotisserie and Wine space.

Both Pawlcyn and Scala point to similar reasons for the shift down valley: the increase in hotel rooms in Yountville and Napa, and the crackdown on potential DUIs - some contend the police have been overzealous in pulling over drivers, having a chilling effect. Another factor is that Highway 29, the major route through the valley, narrows to two lanes at Yountville and during peak tourist season the traffic can be bumper to bumper.

Pawlcyn says St. Helena has been in a no-growth mode for the past 15 years, and the governing body is just starting to loosen up. In the past few years, established restaurants like Cook and Terra have been granted full liquor licenses. That allowed Sone and Doumani to convert part of Terra into Bar Terra, featuring cocktails and a more casual menu.

While the food at Bar Terra is excellent, and received a rare 3 1/2-star review in The Chronicle, Doumani says business is still slower than it should be, although the conversion has helped Terra, which is located on the other side of the entrance.

Loosening restrictions has led to a spurt of growth in the city. In the last few years, Pawlcyn figures St. Helena has increased its number of restaurant seats by more than 300, a significant boost in dining capacity.

Martini House, which was closed for more than a year, has been taken over by Goose & Gander. Farmstead, part of Long Meadow Ranch, used to be a garden-supply store. La Condesa housed Keller's Meats, and French Blue, which opened earlier this year, was the longtime home of Vanderbilt and Co.

An attraction of the area, and one that might help focus more attention up valley, is Meadowood, where Christopher Kostow earned a four-star review from The Chronicle and three stars from Michelin. Whether this will have the same effect on St. Helena as the French Laundry did on Yountville is still to be determined.

Some wonder whether there is enough potential dining business in St. Helena to support the expansion. "I think it's grown in restaurants," Pawlcyn says, "rather than customers."

Top Napa Valley restaurants

The difference in the Napa Valley restaurant scene from when Mustard's opened in 1983 is monumental. In the 2012 Top 100 Bay Area Restaurant Guide, a dozen Napa Valley restaurants earned a coveted spot. They are:

Ad Hoc, Yountville

Bistro Don Giovanni, Napa

Bottega, Yountville

Bouchon, Yountville

French Laundry, Yountville

Morimoto, Napa

Oenotri, Napa

Press, St. Helena

Redd, Yountville

The Restaurant at Meadowood, St. Helena

Solbar, Calistoga

Terra/Bar Terra, St. Helena

In addition, several impressive restaurants have opened since the list was released in April and other older places are serious candidates for next year's guide, including:

Angele, Napa

Redd Wood, Yountville

Napa Register: French Blue - New Option for Casual Dining

Tue, 18 Sep 2012 04:00:00 GMT

When a renowned architect and a celebrated designer —who just happen to be married to each other — team up on a new restaurant project, one expects the end result to be something special.

Indeed, that’s just what French Blue is — an exceptionally beautiful, comfy dining room that’s bright and airy and full of the tempting aromas of food being prepared in its open kitchen.

Located at the north end of St. Helena’s Main Street in the former Vanderbilt furnishings store, the new informal eatery takes its name from that shop’s 50-year-old French blue front doors, which now frame the restaurant’s restrooms.

The structure, owned by Howard Backen — designer of Harlan Estate, Continuum, Ovid and Ram’s Gate wineries as well as Press Restaurant — was rebuilt by the architect and imaginatively decorated by his interior-designer wife, Lori.

Other partners in the venture include co-owners Stanley Morris — a former Teatro ZinZanni partner who worked with Backen and restaurateur Larry Mindel during their Il Fornaio days — and restaurateur/vintner Leslie Rudd, whose winery and Mount Veeder farm supply the restaurant with fresh produce grown by farmer Omar Morgan.

In addition to the inviting 65-seat dining room, French Blue features an outdoor umbrella-accented patio that’s proving to be the new hot spot for breakfast, especially on weekends. Reminiscent of a dining room one might enjoy at a Lake Tahoe resort, the wood-beamed interior features a fireplace, rustic wood tables and wicker chairs. A horseshoe-shaped, zinc-topped bar is yet another option for dining and drinks.

Returning to the valley to man the stoves at French Blue is Executive Chef Philip Wang, the chef who opened the Hilltop and Boon Fly restaurants at the Carneros Inn in 2005.

The Indiana native has lived in the Bay Area “10 years on and off,” he says. “I keep finding my way back.” When he left Napa, Wang went over to Sacramento to open Mason’s Restaurant and then flew off to Hawaii.

“It was a great lifestyle, and the food is great in Hawaii,” the chef noted. “I opened two Merriman’s restaurants — in Maui, where we were a finalist for the James Beard Foundation’s best new restaurant, and Kauai. After I got the one on Kauai up and running, I came back to San Francisco, working at Fog City Diner for about a year.”

He was working on a business plan with a good Chicago friend to open a restaurant in the Windy City when he was asked to help open Ram’s Gate Winery opposite the Sonoma raceway.

“Howard Backen designed Ram’s Gate, and that’s where I first talked to him and Lori about the French Blue project,” Wang said.

Wang is taken with the inviting coziness of the restaurant. “To me, it feels like a living room, filled with natural light and big blue pillows,” he said with a broad smile. “I started working on the project last October ... (because) we expected to open last February. We eventually opened to our first customers in May.”

The chef said the goal was to invoke the feel of a neighborhood eatery “with simple, approachable food ... a family restaurant serving familiar dishes without pretense, but with the elegance of Napa Valley.

“We want to focus on fresh, local, sustainable, without hitting you over the head with it. We don’t want to reinvent the wheel, nor do we want dining here to turn into an intellectual exercise.”

Wang said another goal of the French Blue team was for the menu to offer affordable fare. “We’d like this to be where you can get a beer and burger for $20 — in fact, we have only one item that’s more than $20.”

Eggs to agnolotti

The kitchen offers a variety of American dishes, with Mexican and Asian accents thrown in for good measure.

“I love doing breakfast,” chef Wang volunteers. “I did it at Boon Fly. At breakfast, a little bit of effort pays off. ... You can make things a little more interesting than just serving bacon and eggs.”

With items ranging in price from $5 for fresh fruit and honey to $15 for grass-fed steak and egg with Yukon Gold potatoes, the breakfast menu is served from 8 to 11 a.m. daily. One of the most popular offerings is the tasty blueberry pancake baked in an individual cast-iron skillet in the oven, accompanied by warm blackberry maple syrup.

“Something We Baked Today” is often a warm muffin served with fruit jam. The tomatillo baked farm eggs come with Rancho Gordo beans and fried plantains, while the Cowgirl Mount Tam omelet features the noted Northern California cheese and trumpet mushrooms.

Soft polenta is the comfort side dish for fresh chorizo and baked farm eggs, while light eaters can enjoy a Rudd Farms egg served with toybox tomatoes and levain toast.

Diners can also choose steel-cut oats with toasted almonds, maple almond granola with sheep’s milk yogurt, or a fennel cured salmon sandwich with cucumbers and radishes.

The full menu is offered from 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. daily. It includes “Four Buck Bites” (fried green olives, Padron peppers, chicken liver mousse and spicy pickled things) as well as shareable plates ($8-$13) like small egg salad sandwiches, wood-baked lamb meatballs, daily made farmer’s cheese with strawberries, and oven-baked flatbread with “something on top.”

Wang and his culinary team prepare a daily soup ($8) plus a few salads, including a baby iceberg wedge ($9) with creamy feta dressing and braised bacon “croutons,” as well as a grilled chicken paillard with peppery greens and a soft-boiled farm egg ($14.50).

There’s generally about 10 larger-plate offerings as well, ranging from burgers ($13.50) to grass-fed hanger steak with heirloom tomatoes ($22). Choices include fresh corn agnolotti with hen-of-the-woods mushrooms, chorizo roasted mussels with Kennebec fries, grilled California white seabass with summer pole beans, plus smoked young chicken with toybox tomato bread salad. Reappearing from the breakfast menu are the Cowgirl Mount Tam omelet and the fennel cured salmon sandwich.

French Blue has an exceptional cheese program with nine California offerings (Bellwether San Andreas to Barinaga Ranch Baserri) and the chef’s favorite French blue cheese, Fourme d’Ambert — available in varying amounts, from three for $16 to a full platter for $55.

Yummy desserts (all $7) include Red Beauty plum upside-down cake with brown butter ice cream; salted chocolate mousse parfait with fresh raspberries; Manny’s strawberry shortcake; August Flame peach crumble with vanilla bean ice cream; and Pink Pearl and Gravenstein apple crostada with blackberry sorbet.

With 16 of its six dozen choices offered by the glass, French Blue offers diners an opportunity to pair a wide variety of Napa Valley and Northern California wines with their meals. There’s always a couple of wines on tap, too, and a reserve wine list that includes hard-to-come-by bottlings from Dana Estate, Screaming Eagle, Futo, Harlan Estate, Kenzo Estate and Ovid.

The restaurant has a full bar as well, spotlighting brunch cocktails like the Ramos Fizz and Bellini. Popular among the afternoon and evening crowd are seasonal cocktails like the Celery Collins, San Francisco Mule and Watermelon Corpse Reviver, as well as a few classics: Negroni, Pisco Sour, Pimm’s Cup, and — what else? — French 75.

French Blue is located at 1429 Main St., St. Helena. For more information, call 968-9220.

Redbook Mag: Most Romantic Spots in America

Thu, 13 Sep 2012 04:00:00 GMT

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Courtesy of the Harvest Inn

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Harvest Inn, Napa Valley

The date: A day of hard-core pampering

Sure, this picturesque destination just north of San Francisco is known for top-notch Cabernets and Chardonnays (and we suggest you try them!) but there's much more to do here than sampling wine. Try unwinding together with a spa day at the ultra-cozy Harvest Inn in St. Helena and opt for an outdoor couples massage in the Redwood Grove. Or use the antioxidant-rich, anti-aging power of grapes to feed your face with a Grape Seed Glow Facial Massage. The Harvest Inn is also just a five-minute drive to the Culinary Institute of America, where you can sign up for a full-day cooking class or nosh on a multi-course meal at the school's Wine Spectator restaurant.

Napa Register: Horses and Wine Blend Among the Vines at Tamber Bey

Fri, 07 Sep 2012 04:00:00 GMT

For a substantial chunk of his business career, Barry Waitte “played with the big boys” in the worlds of high technology and venture capital.

When he wasn’t moving money around or investigating a tech breakthrough, Waitte and his fianceé — now wife — Jennifer, spent days on the backs of Arabian horses, taking part in single day endurance races that stretched for either 50 or 100 miles.

But the lure of the grapevine got to Waitte, and he decided he’d rather grow grapes than pound stakes in high finance.

Not only was he familiar with Napa Valley but he felt Napa was the best place to make the type of wine he likes to drink.

“My parents used to vacation in St. Helena ... I’ve been coming here since I was 2 years old,” he recalled over a glass of a lush merlot enjoyed on the veranda of his Yountville wine estate.

“I love wine,” Waitte said, “and I looked into all aspects of the business before I chose the role of a grower.”

Just about a dozen years ago, Waitte purchased a choice 60-acre vineyard at the northern end of the Yountville appellation, containing cabernet sauvignon, merlot and smaller tracts of red Bordeaux varieties. When he brought a couple of horses to the property, he named the property Deux Chevaux.

Within months, he learned another nearby property was on the market. This one at the southern boundary of the Oakville appellation,

17 acres on Yount Mill Road, had a mix of established vines. This property became the winery’s namesake Tamber Bey Estate, which combined the names of the first Arabian horses that Waitte owned and raced. On this relatively cool climate property, Waitte planted a number of choice cabernet sauvignon clones,

By the end of the following year, Waitte decided he wanted to do more than sell grapes to others. He figured he could do that and also make some of his own wine. To that end, he asked respected valley winemaker Thomas Brown to help him realize his new winemaking goal.

The Deux Chevaux property needed to be replanted, Waitte noted, but he kept about 2.5 acres of the Dijon clone chardonnay. “Those vines are 30 years old now,” Waitte reveals, “and they consistently produce top fruit. We released our first chardonnay from the 2001 harvest and we’ve gotten anywhere between 250 and 600 cases of exceptional chardonnay from Deux Chevaux every year.”

In the fall of 2003, Tamber Bey entered the market with 50 cases each of 2001 chardonnay, merlot and a cabernet sauvignon blend from Deux Chevaux Vineyard.

“Within weeks, the majority of the production was delivered, primarily to a select list of friends and family, and the entire inventory was sold by the end of the year,” Waitte said.

Since that time, the Tamber Bey portfolio has grown to eight wines with production this year expected to top out at 6,500 cases.

In addition to limited productions of chardonnay and rosé, Tamber Bey Vineyards offers two cabernets – Deux Chevaux and Oakville Estate vineyards — a merlot and three red blends.

Waitte loves Bordeaux blends. The three produced at present are based on cabernet sauvignon (Rabicano), petit verdot (Tovero) and cabernet franc (Sabino) – the names all horses’ color coat patterns — with one to come focusing primarily on merlot.

Also, the current harvest will bring two more wines to the portfolio — a pinot noir made from purchased Sonoma fruit and a sauvignon blanc from an Oakville grower.

Waitte’s largest volume offerings are the Deux Chevaux Vineyard cabernet sauvignon and the cabernet-based Rabicano blend.

Tamber Bey has four newly planted acres of vines maturing this year, with Waitte planting another four acres once harvest is over.

All of this activity is what attracted well known France-born winemaker/viticulturist Frederic Delivert to join the Tamber Bey team. While Brown will continue to consult on the project, the day-to-day winemaking program will be overseen by Delivert. Tamber Bey’s winemaking efforts are about to expand and the new winemaker is looking forward to building a new winery in future years for the venture.

“I am open to trying new things,” Delivert observed. “I was attracted to this project because of the number of varietals I will work with. I like blending and this is the perfect place to do that.” Waitte intends to add a chardonnay fermented in stainless steel tanks that will not spend any time in wood. That will be Delivert’s first new project.

Waitte said he does not want to grow beyond 10,000 cases — and that growth won’t occur for at least five years, he says.

He’s happy at the moment because “we sell out every year. We have a tasting room in St. Helena and I have to limit sales so we have enough wine for it.”

Tamber Bey distributes only two of its wines in 20 states. “That’s because only two of our wines are more than 1,000 cases — the rest are under 500,” the vintner adds. He notes that 75 percent of Tamber Bey wines are sold to individuals, with 50 percent alone coming through the company’s Eqqwine Club.

All but the chardonnay can be tasted and purchased at Tamber Bey Vineyards tasting room at 1234 Adams St., St. Helena. The Deux Chevaux chardonnay can be tasted and purchased after making an appointment to visit the wine estate on Yount Mill Road.

Waitte met his wife, Jennifer, when he purchased a horse from her. One of the best endurance riders in the country, she was a member of the United States World Cup team. The couple has four Arabian performance race horses on their wine estate and continue to take part in endurance races in California and elsewhere.

Press Democrat: New Tastes of St. Helena

Wed, 05 Sep 2012 04:00:00 GMT

As Napa Valley towns go, picture-perfect St. Helena has always had it all. Alive with great places to eat and drink well before Yountville became chock-a-block gourmet and Napa created its own food and wine scene, St. Helena continues to explode with new restaurants, newly reinvigorated establishments, new tasting rooms and an abounding joie de vivre.

It's all encapsulated in its monthly CHEERS! Event, an evening walk-around tasting that curates all the excitement into one night.

Bello Family Vineyards: A brand new addition to St. Helena's wine scene, Bello is a swanky, stylistically provocative tasting venue that's walking distance from downtown.

Owned by the Southern California-based Bello family, who own big-time winning thoroughbred race horses, the wines are made by local winemaker Aaron Pott, who also consults for Napa Valley-based Krupp Brothers, Seven Stones, Blackbird, Quixote and Fisher Vineyards.

The Bello 2009 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon is superbly juicy, as is the 2009 Megahertz Cabernet Sauvignon, named for one of the Bellos' now-retired champion mares. On an Indian summer's day, start with the gorgeous marsanne.

929 Main St., St. Helena, 967-8833, bellofamilyvineyards.com.

CHEERS! St. Helena: From May through October, on first Friday of every week from 5:30 p.m. to 8:30 p.m., the town comes alive with food, wine and walk-around fun all along Main Street. Many of the local businesses stay open later and offer specials to the crowds, and street food booths cook up delicious bites and meals.

Try and make it this Friday, Sept. 7, or to the last of the season on Oct. 5. A non-profit celebration, admission is free, but visitors may buy a tasting pass for $35 and taste everything. A group of 40 stores, 15 restaurants, breweries and more than 50 wineries throughout the Napa Valley participate, while live music takes place at several local lounges. Kids may enjoy face painting or POPO the Clown. Get more information at cheerssthelena.com.

French Blue: French Blue is a great new locals' hangout, and what everybody is buzzing about is the all-day breakfast, crafted around fresh chorizo and baked farm eggs as well as an omelette topped with Cowgirl Creamery Mt. Tam cheese. And that's just the beginning. Go for "Something We Baked Today," and be treated to some of the lightest, most flavorful scones baked this side of England, or get lucky and it'll be banana bread flecked with Tcho chocolate.

The oven-baked blueberry pancake in rhubarb maple syrup will please big and little kids, and no matter how much you've already ordered, be sure to add a side of wood-fired sage breakfast sausage, one of the house specialties. Breakfast cocktails range from a Bellini to the Pink Mimosa, but particularly tempting is the Ginger Champagne Cocktail, made from ginger liqueur, sparkling wine, a sugar cube and Angostura bitters.

1429 Main St., St. Helena, 968-9200, frenchbluenapa.com.

Goose & Gander: Found within the re-tooled former Martini House, Goose & Gander is reason alone to retreat to St. Helena. The gourmet, pub-inspired food from soon-to-be famous chef Kelly McCown is just that good, from smoked duck breast drizzled with peaches and cherries to succulent braised meatballs in roasted San Marazano tomato sauce.

Renowned bar-chef Scott Beattie mans the downstairs watering hole, serving drinks that are seasonal and almost meals in themselves. If you can't try them all, start at least with the Scarlett Gander, a mix of Buddha's Hand vodka, lemon, mint, shiso, ginger, galangal (in the ginger family) and cherries.

1245 Spring St., St. Helena, 967-8779, goosegander.com.

Gott's Roadside: The ever-beloved Taylor's Refresher, renamed Gott's Roadside, has started serving breakfast daily from 7 a.m. to 11 a.m. It puts a twist on many of its standbys, from scrambled eggs and bacon sandwiches to potato and egg tacos to more standard breakfast fare like granola, French toast and hash browns. Fresh brewed coffee and Tillerman tea are complemented by a choice of Odwalla juice and smoothies.

933 Main St., St. Helena, 963-3486, gotts.com.

La Condesa: Opened within the historic Keller Brothers Meats building downtown, La Condesa revolves around modern Mexican cuisine and an extensive premium tequila and mezcal inventory and subsequently inspired lineup of cocktails. A spin-off of La Condesa in Austin, Texas, which was nominated Best New Restaurant in 2010 by the James Beard Foundation, the St. Helena branch is open for lunch and dinner and features Taco Tuesdays with a sublime offering of delicious Mexico City-style fare.

1320 Main St., St. Helena, 967-8111, lacondesanapavalley.com.

The Restaurant at Meadowood: Given three Michelin stars, the restaurant at tony Meadowood is open to the public and worth a splurge. Chef Christopher Kostow is a master at working with local ingredients to prepare a singular dining experience for every guest. He literally cooks without a menu, a concept introduced last spring after an extensive three-month renovation of the restaurant's kitchen and dining room. This is elegantly avant-garde dining at its best.

900 Meadowood Lane, St. Helena, 967-1205, therestaurantatmeadowood.com.

Napa Valley Register: Meadowood's Talented Christopher Kostow is one of Nation's Best

Tue, 28 Aug 2012 04:00:00 GMT

The air in the main dining room at Meadowood Resort is anything but rarefied. For a restaurant with three stars — awarded by that arbiter of culinary palates worldwide, the Michelin Guide — diners might expect formal service and highfalutin’ demeanor to come with dinner.

While that’s never been the case in The Restaurant at Meadowood, the dining experience at the St. Helena lodging these days is even more relaxed and unceremonious. One might catch the playful mood of executive chef Christopher Kostow as he skirts about the newly remodeled dining room sharing tales and techniques about the dishes he and his team have prepared for the evening meal. If not, the infectious smiles of the staffers will surely make the heart glad.

All of this bliss did not come by accident. Kostow and his front-of-the-house equal, Nathaniel Dorn, hatched a plan — and it’s working.

Unless you’ve been out of the area for three years or more, you know Kostow as one of the young Turks creating culinary excitement in this country. His predecessor, Joseph Humphrey, turned the spotlight on The Restaurant at Meadowood when he and his team received one- and then two-star ratings from the prestigious Michelin Guide a few years ago. Kostow brought added luster with the addition of one more star, along with lots of press from the food media in other necks of the woods. The Chicago native is only the second American-born chef and third-youngest chef ever to receive three Michelin stars.

“We were given a restaurant to run” when he came to St. Helena four years ago after earning accolades at a fine dining haunt on the Peninsula. “But I was cooking with someone else’s vision.”

When the facility closed last year for a remodel, the culinary vision also received an overhaul. Kostow talks about sitting down with his culinary crew, with restaurant manager Dorn, to map out a plan that would achieve what they had in mind for Meadowood guests.

One of the most significant changes came in the kitchen which, up to then, had been shared with the banquet chef and other cooks working on premise.

“With the new decor (in the dining room), and the kitchen remodel, we could take more ownership of the end product,” Kostow says between sips of morning coffee. “We’re more comfortable in the kitchen ... there’s less stress and fewer peripheral problems. As a result, we have more time to delve into who we want to be — and I think it shows. ... There’s excitement in the experience.”

The executive chef redesigned the kitchen, opening it up so that he could include a chef’s counter for diners who want in on the action.

Kostow said his chefs can be more productive in an environment where they’re not constantly bumping into one another, in a space that previously served as hallway as well as workspace.

“I’m the ideas guy — Nathaniel gets things done ... he’s a great operator. We recognize that we’re in a unique place — you don’t hear about three-star restaurants in hotels. But this is independently run — we answer to Mr. (Bill) Harlan (resort operating partner) and we could not ask for a better partner. We couldn’t have done this without his support.

“We’ve been very busy, and our bar program is taking off. People tell us they are having a good time. The owners are pleased with our success. After all, this is a business, not a vanity project.”

The tasting menu

Chef Kostow, restaurant manager Dorn and other staffers spent nearly a year on design and menu changes. Everything’s new, from the dishware to the wicker on the veranda.

Of course, guests are interested in what comes from the kitchen. A significant change is that Kostow and crew offer only an eight-course tasting menu, plus the usual amuse-bouches and mignardises.

“But we didn’t want the guests to feel that we’re telling them what they have to eat and that’s it,” Kostow points out, “although 95 percent of our guests say to us, ‘We are in your hands.’

“Of course, we can accommodate people who don’t want to eat meat or fish ... we go out of our way to cook for them.

“We want everyone to know that we are making a menu for them ... that is it exceptionally personal. At this price point, they deserve a personalized experience. That’s why I spend more time in the dining room — people want to see me.”

How Kostow and The Restaurant team personalize each and every meal requires digging up a little information about the guests. “We talk to our guests when they call up and make a reservation, doing it without grilling the person. We ask about likes and dislikes, although it might not be so easy for a six top when we’re only talking to one of the group. Obviously, some of our guests have been here before and we know a little about them. Once they’ve dined with us, notes are kept about the meal and what they told us about their experience. It takes a little time and effort (to develop a personal file), but it allows us to deliver dishes we feel the diner will enjoy.”

For every meal service, Kostow and his dozen-member staff develop a master list of dishes; then they write a menu for each diner based on the information that’s been gathered. “That way we can order and prep precisely for what we’re going to serve. We ring in the items (in the computerized kitchen system) before the guests get here. It’s seamless for the kitchen and quite personalized for the guest.”

The menus are best left to the descriptors offered by front-of-the-house staff — and, of course, when one eyes and tastes what’s set in front of him or her. There are dishes like a bouillon made from roasted meats, corn pudding with brown butter huitlacoche, fresh trout with “forgotten herbs,” beets and peaches, black cod with green figs, cherry tomatoes with clams and lovage, abalone with lobster mushrooms, côte de boeuf, even young goat. The eight-course tasting menus are offered at $225 per person. Wines can be paired with the tasting menu or purchased by the bottle from a most knowledgeable sommelier team recruited by Dorn.

Kostow enjoys the challenges of preparing an average of 65 meals per night. “We’re in the business of trying to make these people feel great ... it’s much bigger than just getting the job done.

“It’s a young man’s game, really. Yes, I have women in the kitchen — I find they are a moderating factor ... they keep things a little more casual. My No. 2 is a woman.”

He sings the praises of his “loyal staff ... we’re building this together. The people who work here are invested in this.”

The Restaurant’s executive chef realizes that earning three stars from the folks at Michelin Guide “increases (diners’) expectations. But I don’t dwell on it — if you do you get stagnant. We have more goals than pleasing one publication. I do feel we’re among the best in the world.

“Food in the Bay Area is the most exciting in the country, although you don’t find that reported as it should be. The media has a New York bias. No one in New York is doing what Bay Area chefs are doing. The budgets of the New York-based media have been slashed. If they want to see what’s new and interesting, they’d better spend the money and come out here. The world knows (because international writers spend time in the Bay Area).”

Residents of St. Helena, Christopher and Martina Kostow are expecting their first child come February. “It’s got to be a slow time,” the chef adds with a broad grin, noting that he and his wife planned the birth during winter when business slows down a bit at Meadowood.

Asked about the future, the energetic 35-year-old thought for a moment and replied: “I’d like to do something else in St. Helena in addition to this.”

Modern Luxury: Best Chef Awards 2012

Tue, 07 Aug 2012 04:00:00 GMT

Chef of the Year: Christopher Kostow

You know a restaurant loves its chef when it closes for a couple months to give its kitchen—a place where diners rarely tread—a glamorous facelift. Last winter, St. Helena’s Restaurant at Meadowood did just that for Kostow, who is rich in stars. He’s a thinking person’s chef, and his delicate California sensibility—one where ingredients meet technique right in the middle—is pitch-perfect. Not to mention he’s only 36. Imagine where he’ll be at 40.

900 Meadowood Ln., St. Helena, 707-963-3646